Upgrades4MGs
Get more from your B... Engine Upgrades
Ed Braclik's K Series MGB GT
Following a summary telephone and email discussion with Ed, I have tried to simplify the conversion process as best I can!
Firstly the parts list would look something like
this (staying focused on the engine swop and not looking at brake and suspension
upgrades) and the prices shown in brackets are relevant to 2006, and are an
approximation only, you should be able to shop around for the best deal, of
course:
- K series engine to include alternator, ECU, FI and inlet set-up, but not power steering pump or air-con compressor. (£100-£1000 depending on type, either 1.4 through to 1.8 VVC or Turbo) - You don't need the starter as you change the angle of the bellhousing etc. You can get a new starter from Caterham or Tim Fenna.
- Ford Type 9 5 speed gearbox (£350 recon unit)
- Caterham Bell-housing adapter (2nd hand about £150)
- Items to modify the fuel tank for FI such as swirl pot and additional fuel return line. A MkII VW Golf GTi swirl pot fits perfectly and is obtainable from a scrapyard for around £10. It contains the fuel pump already built in! Tim Fenna saw Ed's last month, and was very impressed and is now looking to change his design, apparently.
- Ford Type 9 gearbox fitting kit for MGB (£400) Usually the kits contain all the necessary parts to convert and mount the gearbox, in this case, the unit came from Hi-Gear Engineering.
- V8 Alloy Radiator - If you have a rubber bumper car I don't think you need to change it. The Midget chaps use a 1275 radiator for the 1.6 and a slightly bigger one for the 1.8. Ed's may be a bit over kill, but as he had to change the front anyhow, there was not much in it regarding cost!
- Exhaust manifolds and exhaust system - Ed plans a super stainless system duel exit one to be made next year so Ed's is available if interested. It is a custom manifold onto a Peco 2" performance system. All brand new, but Ed now wants a stainless one. Custom builds are not cheap, expect £800 - £1000 for the exhaust.... Gulp!
- New heater unit to fit in passenger footwell - These are around £120 and are a kit car heater. Very powerful though with a 3 speed motor. I used the shut off valve from a standard rover 45. (see picture below).
- And for chrome bumper cars, panels to modify the fitment of the V8 radiator - Duct panel to do a standard V8 conversion.
- Various hoses, wires, connectors etc etc - This is where you have a lot of fun, according to Ed! Best thing is to contact Ed as he has collected and taken back a shed load of hoses......
Secondly, the fitting of it all! Bear in mind Ed went further than most and also had body work done at the same time:
- Fitment of the Ford Type 9 gearbox to establish the engine's position. This is a simple bolt on job if you use the Hi-Gear Engineering kit, but see next step...
- Modifications to rear of engine bay to allow for the engine to sit further back. Remove the bulkhead and heater channel. Cut away a section of the passenger footwell. This largely depends on how far back you want the engine. The engine is quite tall, so the further back, the better, plus for mass distribution, it helps. However, as Ed had fitted the gearbox first using the kit in the position for which it is designed with the B series engine, this looks as if it will be necessary even for rubber bumper cars.
- Modifications to the front end of the car to allow for the radiator to be moved forward. Ed didn't use an oil cooler. If you are working with a rubber bumper shell, then no modifications are necessary.
- Modifications to the front cross-member to allow the engine to sit without fouling the sump. The photograph shows the initial stages of cutting the cross-member, but this needs to be braced correctly to avoid weakening it. The final finish is visible in the photograph above, showing the boxed in recess.
- Grinding of the engine block to allow starter motor to be fitted from wrong side on where it is normally mounted in transverse K series fitments. This is Common thing done on all K series engines including on Caterhams. Just don't do to much! Caterham can give you all exact measurements if needed!
Once all this is fitted then connecting up to include:
- Modifying the clutch to cable operation, a simple job, just needing a Ford Transit cable.
- Plumbing in the FI to the tank. Use a MkII VW Golf GTi sender unit. Just bend the float 20° to the right to allow it to clear the internal strengthening bar.
- Plumbing in the cooling system. Frontline's hose diagram provided by Ed.
- Wiring in the ECU - Best get a professional to do this if you are not 100% sure yourself.... Ed was not confident, so got the local automotive electrician to do it. Took just over a day!
Question:
Can I assume that the rubber bumper cars designed to take a V8 would not need all the body modifications you undertook to sit the engine further back?
Ed:
The rubber bumper shells wouldn't need the modifications at the front for repositioning the radiator, but would still need the modifications at the bulkhead/heater box to allow the engine to sit further back.
Question:
You seem to have got rid of the whole shelf behind the engine, but is it feasible to still fit the engine without that on a r/b car?
Ed:
No.... The engine is physically too long!
Question:
I am hoping to get a feel for the amount of engineering involved so as to either use your chaps in Carterton, or to at least get a realistic picture of the skills required to tackle it myself.
Ed:
If you are a capable chap and have a lot of time, a good engine hoist, welder and space, it is not that bad. Just time is the biggest thing if you want to make it look good!
Question:
Plus costs! I know an English Gent never discusses this and obviously setting aside all the other work, realistically what sort of ball-park figure am I looking at regarding a sensible budget?
Ed:
Could be done on a budget, unfortunately mine wasn't....sensibly........... £2 500 assuming the focus is on the engine and gearbox, but don't forget the all important brake and suspension upgrades.
K Series power
